Miss Vintage: new guardian




By Rachel Holmes What are the new trends in menswear? With one fashion week over (Milan menswear) and another to come (Paris menswear), we've been taking an unhealthy interest in men's clothing this week. Of course, it's nothing to do with all those half-naked male bodies strolling down the catwalks. No, we're wholly focused on trendspotting for our loyal readers. Honest. Our overriding impression so far is that everything seems unnaturally wearable. This is a good thing in the world of fashion, and probably shows the designers' reaction to the recession. No freaky couture showpieces here; instead we've seen beautiful soft tailoring and slim fits. Jackets were cut sharply with slim, defined shoulders and thin lapels: check out Raf Simons for Jil Sander. Trousers were cigarette cuts ending just above the ankle, often with something going on in that area: cuffs, roll-ups or zips (a la Gucci). Or they were baggy with pockets, in a nod to utility wear. We also saw the odd harem pant (but we'd prefer not to mention that). Gucci, Prada and a few others showcased skinny ties, or no ties at all, with shirts buttoned up to the top and thin collars. Elsewhere we saw a lot of loose-fitting vests, generally with slashed fabric - we'd advise getting a tan before attempting to pull this off. The safari look from last season carried on in many of the collections. Missoni had a lot of sunbleached khaki, which made the models look as if they'd spent a week traversing a desert. Versace used loose-fitting linens in a colonial look, involving tunic tops and trousers in shades of white and cream. The other overriding influence was the eighties, but this was seen mainly in the shiny fabrics and trims rather than in the tailoring. There were no power shoulders here. In terms of prints and patterns we noticed folky yet geometric knits from Missoni; bold monochrome prints and horrible skiwear-of-the-eighties knits from Gucci; and striped boating blazers at Frankie Morello and Vivienne Westwood. Fabrics were often distressed (Emporio Armani) or faded, sometimes adding an air of bygone elegance (Bottega Veneta). Colours were muted, almost autumnal in some cases, and we saw A LOT of grey. In fact, we predict that shades of grey will be hot this time next year. There was also the odd flash of colour: bright oranges, reds or limey yellows. An honourable mention goes to Raf Simons for Jil Sander, whose clothes were inspired by the work of the Japanese artist Tsuguharu Foujita. Raf said of the collection, "It is a message of love - very pure, very simple". We were feeling the love for the prints, but when it came to the pudding-basin hairdos we only felt nauseous. We were pleasantly mystified by the Cavalli show. Models seemed to be wearing trousers that could zip up to the mid-chest. Fashion Statement spent a good ten minutes pondering who, of the men we know, could get away with this singular look. Interested? Take a look here. We liked the BMX stunt-cyclists on the catwalk for Emporio Armani. Last but not least, thanks go out to Dsquared2, who made us giggle with their camping on the catwalk theme. We called it 'German tourist meets lumberjack and skater in the Bavarian mountains'.

BANG ON TREND

Glastonbury kicks off the festival season this week. If you're planning to hang out in a muddy field listening to music, here are a few hints and tips on what to wear.

If the sun appears you'll need some cool shades. Steer clear of bright frames - leave it to the teenagers - and stick to classic black, tortoiseshell or brown. For those on a budget we likeUrban Outfitter's Demi tortoiseshell glasses, £15. They have the shape of Wayfarers without the cost.

For those lucky enough not to have to think about such petty things as price, we'd go for the sunglasses of the season, Ray-Ban Clubmasters at £79.

You'll also need a hat to prevent sunstroke. Straw hats have proved their staying power. The trilby is still in fashion and available in a Topman near you; however, we prefer the panama for a little more panache. Debenhams have a cheapo version for £15 and ethical fashion label Pachacuti sell the real deal for between £30 and £60. It might be worth investing in a Pachacuti one because they travel so well: you can fold them up small to fit in your rucksack and they'll take a shower or two without falling apart.

On top you need a funky T-shirt: we'd recommend the Ecky Grandad one by Luke 1977, £40. Not only do we like the name, but it's an interesting twist on a round-necked tee, with coloured buttons and small yet significant details.

Or there's this 'cassette' T shirt by Komodo, which is made from organic hemp and cotton and costs £25.

In case of rain we advise packing an essential item: the Mac in a Sac. £15.95 gets you a waterproof, breathable, pack-away jacket which comes in any colour you can imagine. We think the brighter the better. (Anyone who braved Bestival last year will realise that this is a good spend).

For warmth and style of an evening we like this Raf by Raf Simons hoodie. It's not a bad price at £70 and has big buttons and a bright colour.

Moving downwards, we like Topman's washed-out denim shorts which come ready-distressed for £25. They'll probably still look good spattered with mud.

Alternatively, simply cut off a pair of old stonewashed jeans just below the knee and roll up. The more battered the better - think of a pair you'd use to decorate in.

Finally, we know they're heavy but we would heartily reccomend taking wellies if there's any chance of rain. We've seen the trendiest of trainers buried in a metre of filth while the welly-wearers laugh at the hapless idiot who now has to go barefoot for two days. The best wellies are Hunter's and you can get them with nice padded insoles (don't underestimate how useful this is when you can't sit down for ten hours straight). Don't bother with patterns or odd colours, just go for classic green or navy. The cheapest come in at £35.24 and are guaranteed leak-proof.

FASHIONISTA OF THE WEEK

Roger Federer

Who knows if it's Anna Wintour's influence or whether Federer has just made a natural progression from his retro cardie last year, but when he hit the courts at Wimbledon earlier this week he was styled as if for a Vogue shoot. While he looked kind of ridiculous in three layers on a sunny day, we couldn't help admiring the confidence of a man who's comfortable carrying around a gold lamé tennis bag.

QUOTE OF THE WEEK

"It's my favourite campaign ever! ... That is what Calvin Klein Jeans is supposed to be. Everyone needs to be scandalized and screaming. That is what we want."

Italo Zucchelli announces his opinion on Steven Meisel's racy new CK Jeans 'threesome' billboard (from nymag.com).

FASHION GRAVEYARD

His 'n' hers hairdos

Luke Worrall and Kelly Osborne, fashion's least mysterious couple, were pictured posing backstage at Frankie Morello's menswear show this week. They looked disturbingly similar with the sun shining off their bleached white locks.

SHOPPING NEWS

First of all, a tip for next spring. Forget the manbag: satchels and rucksacks are now officially passe. How do we know this? Dolce & Gabbana told us. About half of their models were seen striding in a masculine fashion down the catwalk with a man clutch (Mlutch? Much?) in hand. They were black, shiny and had room for a wallet and a Chapstick, but that's about it.

Secondly, we were perturbed to hear that Topman has introduced 'the shacket' (will this amalgamating of names never end?). Yes, it's a shirt and a jacket. Together. From the picture it just looks like a shirt with an elasticated waist but, hey, we're not designers. To be worn with a T-shirt underneath and skinny jeans, according to the Topman blog.

OUT AND ABOUT

Perusing the latest issue of The Chap: A Journal for the Modern Gentleman, we were intrigued to see their Olympiad Extravaganza 2009 scheduled for Saturday 11 July. This year's event will see a concoction of sporting activities based around gentlemanly pursuits, including the Cucumber Sandwich Discus, Umbrella Jousting and Moustache Wrestling. To find out more visit thechap.net

If you want something less quintessentially English and more authentically Spanish, check outTapas Fantasticas, a festival that takes place in Manchester and London celebrating all the best things about Spanish food, wine and entertainment. Events run all day from 27-28 June in London and 25-26 July in Manchester and the sun is bound to shine. Honest.

tennis